Viands
The recipes
Throughout the ages men and women have swallowed almost any substance that was called an aphrodisiac, no matter how unappetizing or bizarre. In a never-ending search for better sex, humans have consumed such diverse items as oysters, onions, eels, elephant tusks, lion blood, ginseng, gingko, bull testicles, tiger blood, rhinoceros horn, ram penis, pig genitals, poison nuts, asparagus, alcohol, ambergris, mushrooms, marijuana, mandrake root, and the dried remains of the Mediterranean cantharis beetle, otherwise known as ‘Spanish fly.’
–Nancy L. Nickell, in her book Nature’s Aphrodisiacs
Geoffrey Zakarian’s Oyster Tartare Cocktail
With Fresh Cilantro and Almonds
Serves 2 as appetizer
Chef Zakarian, for whom I co-wrote the cookbook Town/Country, agrees with most oyster-lovers that those bivalves are best served raw on the half shell, accompanied by nothing more than a squirt of lemon juice. But our publisher demanded recipes, so this is what Geoffrey came up with. For a romantic tête-à-tête, three oysters per person will suffice as an appetizer course, six as a main course.
Contrary to certain popular beliefs about the “R” months, good fresh oysters are available year round; however, they are best in fall and winter instead of during the summer spawning season, when they can be overly plump. Rather than risk mutilating either the bivalve or your hand, buy your oysters pre-shucked at your fish market. Keep them very cold, and resting in plenty of their liquid until moments before serving.
Seaweed or rock salt
6 medium oysters, shucked
6 oyster half-shells
1 small shallot, finely diced
Cracked black pepper to taste
Balsamic vinegar to taste
1 tablespoon roughly chopped almonds, lightly toasted
1 ripe plum, peeled, pitted, and finely diced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
Arrange the oyster half-shells on a plate on a bed of seaweed or rock salt. Chop the oysters roughly, about five times each. Divide equal portions of the chopped oysters among the six oyster shells. Top each portion of oysters with minced shallot, cracked pepper, a few drops of balsamic vinegar, and chopped almonds. Garnish each portion with diced plum and chopped cilantro, and serve immediately.
For a variation on the presentation: in place of their half-shells, present each oyster in a large, chilled porcelain Chinese soup spoon, add the garnishes, and serve with a chilled glass of Champagne.
Dave’s Avocadoes Stuffed
With Shrimp Salad
Serves 2
I first encountered this classic recipe when I was living in Caracas, Venezuela, in my early 20s. It was my girlfriend’s favorite dish at her local restaurant. We used to share plates of it before we retired to a park bench or (better yet) my apartment. It’s simple and direct, and delivers subtle, sophisticated flavors with several well-known aphrodisiac ingredients.
The shrimp salad is best made with homemade mayonnaise, but you can substitute a good store-bought canola version. You can also substitute cooked lobster or crabmeat for the shrimp. For a spiced-up variation, sauté a small diced shallot briefly in a tablespoon of light vegetable oil, stirring in about 1 teaspoon of curry powder; allow the mixture to cool; then incorporate it into the shrimp salad. These stuffed avocados can be served on a bed of lettuce (preferably Boston and/or green leaf), which has been dressed with a small amount of lemon vinaigrette dressing.
2 large, ripe, yet still firm avocados
1 cup finely chopped de-veined, peeled, cooked shrimp (about 2 dozen medium-to small-sized shrimp)
1 tablespoon minced celery
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley (or tarragon)
2 tablespoons homemade mayonnaise (recipe follows)
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
Wedge of lemon, seeded
teaspoon paprika
Cut the avocados in half lengthwise and carefully remove the skins and pits. Depending on your preference, scoop out the hole left by the pit, to hold more shrimp. (Reserve the excess avocado flesh for another use.) If necessary, cut a small slice off the bottom of each avocado half so it can stand flat on a plate. Combine the chopped shrimp, minced celery, minced parsley, and mayonnaise in a bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Squeeze some juice from the lemon wedge into the avocado cavities, season with salt and pepper, then stuff them with the shrimp salad mixture, mounding it above the level of the cavities. Garnish with another squeeze of lemon and a sprinkle of paprika and serve.
Homemade Mayonnaise
Yields approximately 1 cup
Before food processors became standard equipment in almost all home kitchens, you had to make this by hand-whisking, which takes a lot of elbow grease -- and, if you don’t mind, is still an option. This recipe will yield extra mayonnaise (it’s very hard to make less in a food processor), which may be refrigerated for up to 5 days in a closed glass container.
2 large egg yolks
Pinch of cayenne pepper (or more to taste)
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 cup canola oil (or other light, neutral-tasting vegetable oil)
Place the egg yolks, cayenne pepper, mustard, and lemon juice in the bowl of a food processor. Process until the mixture is well combined. Continue to process as you pour the oil into the bowl in a very thin stream. As the mixture begins to thicken, you can begin pouring the oil in faster. If necessary, thin the mayonnaise by adding a small amount of water while the machine is still running.
Geoffrey Zakarian’s
Chocolate and Coconut Macaroons
Yields 12 cookies
Chocolate and coconut are two ingredients with exotic, evocative undertones; their tropical origins and intriguing contrasts of flavors and textures make them a highly stimulating pair. These delicious cookies, simultaneously gooey and firm, are a lush New World version of a French standard, which would not have included the coconut.
cup sugar2 cups sweetened shredded coconut3 large egg whites1 tablespoon pure vanilla extractPinch of salt cup mini chocolate chips
Preheat the oven to 350° F. In a bowl, combine the sugar, coconut, egg whites, vanilla, and salt, and mix thoroughly (this is best done with your hands). Stir in the chocolate chips.
Line a baking sheet with parchment or a nonstick pad. Using a tablespoon, scoop up portions of the coconut mixture, then use your hands to form each into a packed ball about 1 inch in diameter. Set the macaroons on the baking sheet and bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Allow to cool for 10 minutes, then transfer to a plate or rack to cool completely.
Geoffrey Zakarian’s
Deep Dark Chocolate Pudding
Yields 4 servings
Here’s a suggestion for delivering a rich jolt of aphrodisiac chocolate in another simple, direct recipe. A little bit of this love-potion dessert goes a long way.
5 egg yolks
2 cups heavy cream
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped, plus an additional 2 ounces shaved for garnish
1 tablespoon coffee liqueur
About cup whipped cream, for garnish
Place the egg yolks in a mixing bowl and lightly whisk to break them up. Place the cream and chocolate in a medium saucepan over low heat and melt, whisking constantly. Gradually whisk the cream-chocolate mixture into the egg yolks, initially adding no more than cup at a time. Pour the pudding mixture back into the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture coats a spoon, about 5 minutes. Add the coffee liqueur. Pour the pudding through a fine sieve into a medium serving bowl. Allow to cool slightly, then cover it with plastic wrap and chill (or leave plastic wrap off to form a skin). Once chilled, serve with lightly whipped cream and lots of shaved chocolate.
